CU to maintain FLA membership, aid WRC founding

After careful consideration and analysis of the merits of programs aimed at monitoring and ending sweatshop conditions in the apparel industry, Cornell University will maintain its membership in the Fair Labor Association (FLA) and will participate in the founding conference of another organization, the Worker Rights Consortium (WRC).

Cornell has been a leader in the development of a code of conduct and in monitoring efforts, and Cornell President Hunter Rawlings said the decision to stick with the FLA and to join the WRC is an effort to have a positive impact on both organizations

"The best way to have a positive impact is to be at the table during the formative stages," Rawlings said Tuesday, March 28, in a meeting with members of Cornell Students Against Sweatshops (CSAS).

One year ago, Cornell joined with an initial group of 17 colleges and universities that gave their support to the establishment of the FLA. The FLA now has more than 130 members. As of March 27, at least 20 campuses have indicated support for the WRC, which also is supported by CSAS. Henrik N. Dullea, Cornell's vice president for university relations, will represent Cornell at the WRC founding conference April 7 in New York City.

Rawlings praised the cooperative spirit of the Cornell SAS over the past two-and-one-half years during which students and administrators, in a series of meetings and campus forums, have discussed steps to improve the working conditions of men, women and children employed in the apparel industry.

"The commitment of our students and their advocacy not only is exemplary, but underscores what we can do together when we share a common goal," Rawlings said. "It is important that we give both the FLA and the WRC an opportunity to succeed in this most important task, and we will follow the progress of both organizations closely."

Dave Unger, a sophomore in the School of Industrial and Labor Relations and president of CSAS, expressed his group's appreciation for Cornell's decision regarding the WRC. "Thank you for taking this important step," he said, although CSAS will continue to oppose the FLA, which he described as "flawed."

Responding to a comment made by President Rawlings, Unger agreed that "students at Cornell have been working with the administration here better than at any other campus" because of a shared goal.

In early 1999, Cornell announced it would require full public disclosure of factory locations where university products -- including hats, T-shirts and sweatshirts -- are produced. Since then, 131 companies making Cornell apparel have provided a list of more than 1,130 factory locations. That list has been shared with the campus community, and it will be shared with the FLA and the WRC.

Rawlings noted that Cornell encourages its students, faculty and staff to become more aware of where collegiate apparel is manufactured and to ask retailers a simple question: "Where was this item manufactured?" He said retailers should know that their customers care about where sweatshirts, T-shirts and caps are made, whether they bear Cornell's name or the logo of a famous company.

In his announcement about the FLA and WRC, Rawlings said: "One of the hallmarks of the movement to end sweatshop conditions should be to bring to the table advocates for workers' rights and representatives of the apparel industry. The WRC presently has the support of the leading labor unions in the apparel industry, along with the United Students Against Sweatshops and many concerned non-governmental organizations (NGOs) that have become involved in this issue. Their effective participation in this process will be an important ingredient in its long-term success. The best way to have a positive impact is to have all of the key players at the table, and universities may be able to play a key role in securing this result. Therefore, Cornell University should attend and participate in the WRC's founding conference and will provide financial support to the WRC."

Rawlings added: "Reaching consensus that produces a mutually acceptable accommodation between the FLA and the WRC would make global monitoring efforts more cost-effective, while guaranteeing the independence of the monitoring process. As we proceed as a member of both organizations, Cornell will encourage constructive discourse and encourage efforts to attain our common goal -- ensuring that items bearing Cornell names and marks are made under safe and humane conditions."

Noting that there are differences in the philosophies of FLA and WRC, Rawlings explained that the university will evaluate its future participation in both organizations over the next 18 months. "Cornell will review the effectiveness of both the FLA and the WRC for measurable progress toward the elimination of sweatshops here and abroad. Because the monitoring process is critical and must be managed effectively and fairly, we must allow an adequate period of time for both of these organizations to put in place the procedures, programs, and checks and balances that each proposes."

Periodic reports from FLA and WRC, along with independent analyses, will be reviewed, with a decision about future participation due after December 2001.